Turkey and the Wolf’s Deviled Egg Tostada Is an Instant Picnic Classic
May 31, 2022
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Mason Hereford’s recipe takes the deviled egg to new and delectable heights
When Turkey and the Wolf chef-owner Mason Hereford was creating the opening menu for his second New Orleans restaurant, Molly’s Rise and Shine, he thought a lot about which dishes qualify as breakfast. One of the answers he came up was the deviled egg tostada. As Hereford explains in his new cookbook Turkey and the Wolf: Flavor Trippin’ in New Orleans, “it’s a dish that takes a time-tested Mexican formula (tostada, beans, tasty stuff, salsa) and applies the flavors of Southern picnics and roadside stores.” While Hereford designed it for breakfast, his reference to Southern picnics echoes our belief that a deviled egg tostada is also a perfect picnic potluck food. All of the components can be made ahead of time and assembled on site, with each person making their own tostada. And while this recipe involves two additional sub-recipes, all of them simple and straightforward. Both the Gas-Station Bean Dip and the Peanut Butter Salsa Macha can be prepared well ahead of time. All that’s left is for you to put it all together, and eat.
Deviled Egg Tostadas Recipe
Makes 12
Ingredients:
Deviled Yolks:
Yolks from 12 hard-boiled eggs (feed the whites to your dog)
1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sour cream
1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons finely crumbled cotija cheese
1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons well-shaken buttermilk, plus more if you need it
1 juicy lime, halved
1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt (Diamond Crystal or about half as much Morton), or more if you like
Tostadas:
3⁄4 cup Gas-Station Bean Dip (recipe below)
12 store-bought tostadas
3⁄4 cup drained pickled banana pepper rings, roughly chopped
Some finely chopped red onion
1 1⁄2 cups lightly packed roughly chopped cilantro
3 juicy limes, for zesting and juicing
Peanut Butter Salsa Macha (recipe below), for serving
Instructions:
Step 1: Make the Gas-Station Bean Dip and Peanut Butter Salsa Macha ahead of time.
Step 2: Make the deviled egg yolks: In a food processor, process the yolks, sour cream, cheese, buttermilk, juice from half the lime, and salt to a smooth puree, about 30 seconds. Season with more lime juice and salt until you’re happy, and gradually blend in a little more buttermilk if the mixture seems too thick to spread onto the tostadas.
Step 3: Make the tostadas: Remove the bean dip from the fridge 10 to 15 minutes before you want to eat, so it softens up a bit for spreading. Evenly spread the deviled yolks across the tostadas (about 2 tablespoons each). Add some little dollops of the bean dip, about a table- spoon’s worth per tostada.
Step 4: Sprinkle on the banana peppers, onion, and then the cilantro. Use a Microplane to zest the limes over the tostadas, as evenly as you can. Halve a lime or two and squeeze them on. Spoon on that spicy-ass salsa macha, until you’re happy. Eat.
Gas-Station Bean Dip Recipe
Makes about 2 cups
Ingredients:
One 16-ounce can refried beans
1 tablespoon Tabasco Chipotle Pepper Sauce
2 teaspoons Tabasco Green Pepper Sauce
1 teaspoon chili powder
Juice of 1⁄2 lime, or more if you like
Kosher salt
Instructions:
Step 1: Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl and add salt and more lime juice until you’re happy. It keeps in the fridge for up to 10 days.
Peanut Butter Salsa Macha Recipe
Makes about 2 1⁄2 cups
Ingredients:
1 cup grapeseed oil or vegetable oil
5 garlic cloves, peeled
8 dried pasilla chiles, stemmed, slit open, and seeded
12 dried arbol chiles, stemmed, slit open, and seeded
1 cup chunky peanut butter (the natural stuff!)
2 teaspoons kosher salt (Diamond Crystal or about half as much Morton
Instructions:
Step 1: Combine the oil and garlic in a small, heavy pot (narrow enough so the oil submerges the garlic). Turn the heat to medium-high and cook until the garlic is golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to move the garlic to a bowl. Leave the oil in the pot and keep the heat on.
Step 2: Add the pasilla chiles, two or three at a time (they cook really quick, so be ready) to the hot oil and fry, holding them under with a strainer and using the strainer to pull them out as soon as they blister, 5 to 10 seconds. As they’re done, move them to the bowl with the garlic. Fry the arbol chiles in the same way until they darken slightly, 5 to 10 seconds, then move them to the bowl.
Step 3: Let the oil cool to warm, pour it into a food processor, and add the garlic and chiles. Buzz for about 20 seconds, then add the peanut butter and salt and buzz until pretty smooth, another 15 to 30 seconds. Now it’s done. It keeps in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
Nothing evokes potluck picnic joy quite like a little culinary extravagance. The fact that nobody at our picnic expected anyone to come bearing an entire side of poached salmon made it all the more thrilling. There’s a reason surprise and delight makes for an effective marketing strategy; once the bug bites stop itching and the sunburns fade, the echo of a deliciously excessive picnic entree lives forever.
If you’re aiming for fussy, but not enameled-cast-iron-poached-fish-fussy, roast a whole chicken and plate it over a couscous salad studded with dried fruit, pistachios, and preserved lemon (sub in a whole roasted head of cauliflower if your group leans herbivorous, and serve a lemony yogurt-tahini sauce alongside). Slice a tender grilled flank steak, arrange it on a platter, and blanket it in garlicky chimichurri, spicy grilled corn salsa, or sweet cherry tomatoes halved and tossed with fresh cilantro, avocado, thinly sliced green onions, and lime juice. Soak a pork shoulder in a citrus and cumin mojo marinade, then slow roast it, shred, and serve with Cuban-style black beans and rice (or, swap the pork shoulder for tenderloin, chicken, or shrimp skewers, and grill at the picnic).
Sometimes the ultimate fussy flex isn’t so much a dish as an experience: Prep an entire bo ssäm setup, pack all the components in airtight containers, then elaborately arrange on the picnic table. Have access to a fire pit or grill? Grill or pan-fry salmon or cod filets, chop a quick cucumber mango salsa and blend a batch of avocado salsa, then set out stacks of fresh corn tortillas (should you happen to have a grill and comal pan handy, make the tortillas to order). Cook a savory sofrito, pack the Bomba rice, stock, seasonings, and vegetables and protein of choice, plus your 32-inch paella pan (serves 40, and I can personally vouch for this). Perhaps the fussiest of all picnic mains is an authentic bring-a-shovel-style New England clambake, the work for which almost always pays off in indelible summer memories (both fond, and those involving unexpected burn bans, whiny pit diggers, and rubbery shellfish).
Bringing the picnic to an ecstatic halt is about admitting that you are that person, and that going above and beyond in life and picnic mains makes you happy, or at the very least, fills some kind of hole in your soul. You like big braised pork butts with all the carnitas fixings at a picnic, and you cannot lie. Spreading picnic joy via a gin tonic-splashed paella party is who you are, and everyone there will be better off for it, especially when dessert rolls around and you pull out a bit of bonus content in the form of a seven-layer stone fruit trifle (just kidding… or not).
Tatiana Chamorrois an illustrator, part-time bird watcher, occasional guitar player, plant parent, and a knitter of a quarter of a scarf, born and raised in the San Fernando Valley.
At Zahav in Philadelphia, Chef Michael Solomonov’s Egg in the Hole Includes Challah
May 28, 2022
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The dish combines three important Israeli ingredients: sable, challah, and egg
At Philadelphia’s Zahav, chef and owner Michael Solomonov and co-chef Beau Friedman have generated so much acclaim through dishes like fluke kubbeh niyeh, hummus tehina, and their signature pomegranate lamb shoulder, that reservations are booked out for months.
Something Solomonov and Friedman take pride in is putting Israeli twists on classic dishes, like egg-in-the-hole using challah bread.
“I never thought that I would make challah and that would be on the menu,” says Solomonov. “But I don’t know, what’s better than fresh challah?”
The dish is made by sous chef Christine Fariss, who begins by weighing out each dough ball, and letting them proof after they’re weighed. Once proofed, the dough is braided. Fariss likes to use cold dough in this process because warm dough becomes too pliable and may break.
“So you want to be stretching the dough each time you’re pulling it,” explains Fariss. “And starting in the middle gives it that beautiful football shape.”
Fariss twists the braid at the end which binds it all together. From there, the challah dough will be proofed once more until it’s doubled in size, and then it’s baked.
“I grew up in an Ashkenazi Jewish household, so it’s super comforting to see the challah being braided, and smell it come out of the oven,” Friedman remarks.
Once the bread is ready, a hole is cut in the middle; an egg is cracked in the hole while the bread is on the pan. It’s then cooked to the point where the egg yolk is still runny and is then topped with smoked sable, pickled green garlic, everything spice, and dried lemon.
“Sable, challah, and eggs is a very important trinity in our culture,” says Solomonov.
Go watch the full YouTube video to see how Solomonov and the rest of his team at Zahav make more acclaimed dishes.
The Best Shrimp Recipes, According to Eater Editors
May 27, 2022
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Shrimp recipes are a dime a dozen. Here are the best of the best.
In the vast sea of shrimp recipes, it can be a challenge to know which ones to try. Shrimp tacos can be prepared a million ways. Seafood chowder recipes are as numerous as they are inconsistent. And what do you do when you want a shrimp recipe that’s a little different than the same-old same-old? Here, five Eater editors have done the work for you, tracking down the best shrimp recipes we can find — from the old but still good standbys to the new greats.
If you say beignets three times in a mirror, chances are I will appear. Fried dough covered in confectioner’s sugar? Sign me up. But it was only when I made Yewande Komolafe’s corn and shrimp beignets that I realized how much I’d been missing by only pursuing sweet fried dough: beignets deserve a savory counterpart, too. Adjacent to Rhode Island-style clam fritters, these are perfect as a snack or full-on dinner. I had some trouble with the frying part, as is usually the case, but a splatter screen over the pot will save you from burns. In the end, the juice is worth the squeeze, especially when any kind of dipping sauce will do. I recommend something spicy, though — it will counterbalance the salty, sweet, and brine-y flavors of the beignets. — Dayna Evans, staff writer and editor of Eater Philly
Pati Jinich is my favorite source for Mexican dishes, and I discovered these tacos when testing recipes for a blurb about her latest cookbook, Treasures of the Mexican Table. They’re easy enough to tackle on a weeknight while offering a real depth of flavor from ingredients such as chipotle, poblano, tomato, and Worcestershire sauce. I love how the pan crisping step makes them almost quesadilla-like, and I’ll take any excuse to add Oaxacan cheese to my shopping list. — Missy Frederick, cities director
The first time I had a Cajun shrimp boil, it was at a New York Chinatown restaurant, fresh off a bus from Boston, when I was 18. I was absolutely smitten: As a kid who grew up cracking Dungeness crabs every year on Christmas Eve, I have a distinct appreciation for grabbing seafood with my hands and stuffing it in my face, especially when it’s covered in garlic and paprika. It has been hard to recreate the charm of that first shrimp boil, but I’ve found this New York Times recipe has worked as a jumping off point. Kelly, a dear friend of mine with roots in Louisiana and Mississippi, has helped me fine-tune and save a number of Cajun-Creole recipes I’ve bungled (gumbo, in particular), but I have a specific memory of her salvaging a birthday shrimp boil I almost destroyed. She doesn’t play around with the salt — ”the water should taste unbearably salty,” in her words — and there must be a few shakers of Tony Chachere’s nearby. Pro tip: Boil it outside, if you can help it, or open every single window in your house with the hood fan on full blast. It should be spicy enough that the air will make you wheeze. — Brooke Jackson-Glidden, Eater Portland editor
I wouldn’t classify most chowders as “delicate,” but most chowders I’ve eaten don’t have the nuanced layers of flavor this seafood chowder has, which you build by making your own clam broth, cooking carrots and onions and fennel in it, and then adding white wine. This recipe is a great catch-all for whatever seafood looks good at the store, but I never skip the shrimp — cooking them for just a few minutes in that aromatics-infused cream ensures bouncy, slightly sweet shrimp that are my favorite bites in what is always a big bowl of perfect things. — Bettina Makalintal, senior reporter
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt,The Wok: Recipes and Techniques
It’s rare that a cookbook inspires in me a massive lifestyle change, but in the months since getting J. Kenji Lopez-Alt’s cookbook The Wok my partner and I have devoted ourselves to cooking our way through the book. We haven’t even made it to fried rice or noodles yet, but the kung pao shrimp was an instant hit. Kung pao shrimp is not even my normal order at most Chinese American restaurants, but Lopez-Alt’s technique of marinating shrimp in baking soda and salt to keep it plump and juicy is a revelation, and its seasoning of Sichuan peppercorns, honey, and Shaoxing wine creates a tingling, sweet sauce that I now want to eat with everything. Like many wok dishes, it comes together almost instantly, and is inspiring me to keep a lot more frozen shrimp around so I can make this a regular part of my diet. — Jaya Saxena, senior writer
The gorgeous, gorgeous girly of spring ingredients, rhubarb is abundant this time of year. But when it comes to using it, it can stump even the most creative cook.
Picture this: You’re at the grocery store on one of those perfect, just-warm-enough spring days. You’ve decided to “pop in” to the “market” because you’re so laid back for a few ingredients for dinner that night, which you unrealistically dream you’ll eat al fresco wearing a loose linen garment from an overpriced boutique. You spot purple and green asparagus. Sold. A leafy bunch of dark green spinach. Done. Forty-five stalks of three-foot-tall ruby red rhubarb? Well, come on, you are definitely going to cook those, too.
Every year, it is the same sad tale. While the asparagus gets roasted, and the spinach gets thrown into some random recipe just as it’s wilting, the giant stalks of rhubarb — which barely fit horizontally in your fridge to start with — sit pretty and patient, waiting for you to do something with them. Every time you open the door, there they are, wondering when their day will come, as the shelves and drawers get emptied out and replenished with other beautiful farm-fresh produce. There the rhubarb remains, and because vegetables have brains, probably, the stalks are thinking, “Uh, I’m gorgeous and cool. What the hell is going on here?”
The draw of rhubarb in the spring is unavoidable. That gorgeous deep red color is as potent as a siren song (though color is no indication of flavor in rhubarb, so green is just as good as red). Look how tall! And how fresh and thick! Imagine all the delicate desserts that you could make, and the fresh whipped cream you could dollop on top. Rhubarb is an aesthetic signifier of hope springing eternal, and the sight of it in the grocery store conjures visions of garden parties with paisley tablecloths, crisp wines, English accents, and whatever rich people do on Saturdays (?). It’s almost impossible to resist buying more rhubarb than one person could ever know what to do with — and then as soon as you’ve figured out what to do with it, it’s as impossible to resist buying it again. When will you break this vicious cycle?
From laksa-marinated wings at an ’80s-inspired Singaporean kopitiam to sustainable fish and chips from a marine biologist, here’s where to eat in Canada’s thriving food hub
Ringed by soaring mountains, with gleaming glass skyscrapers reflected in the still waters that surround its downtown core, Vancouver is easy to love. And as the thriving urban hub of British Columbia and a proudly immigrant city, there are plenty of people around to love it. Over 40 percent of Vancouver’s residents were born outside of Canada, and the city is home to robust Chinese, Indian, and Filipino communities, to name a few.
The city’s most beloved and vital dining experiences reflect this blend. Chefs from around the world apply culinary traditions to exceptional produce from the Lower Mainland and superb seafood from the cold, clean waters around Vancouver Island, creating a unique style of West Coast cuisine. Vancouver is especially spoiled for choice when it comes to Asian dining: pan-Asian flavors pair with French techniques at Pidgin, Bread X Butter, and Patisserie Remi; Vietnamese and Cambodian culinary traditions joyfully collide at Phnom Penh; and neighboring Richmond boasts some of the very best Chinese food in the world outside of China. Meanwhile, the city’s signature plant-forward, locavore cuisine thrives at restaurants like Forage and Burdock & Co, and sustainable seafood shines at RawBar and Sashimiya. Add in mushrooming brewery and distillery scenes, globally awarded, fresh fruit-forward wines from the nearby Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys, and a creative cocktail culture that’s second to none, and you’ll see why Vancouver deserves its reputation as one of the world’s best places to eat and drink.
Updated, May 2022:
Cherry blossom and patio season fully bloom in Vancouver in May, bringing long, late sunsets and a chance to enjoy the city’s dazzling mountain and ocean views (mostly) without an umbrella. With most COVID-19 restrictions now removed, bars and restaurants across the city are busy, in-person events are back, and spirits are generally high. Look out for seasonal treats on menus, such as sweet sustainable spot prawns and the first scarlet coho salmon from Haida Gwaii.
Nikki Bayley is an award-winning freelance travel, food, and wine writer whose work has appeared in The Daily Telegraph, National Geographic Traveler, The Globe and Mail, and The Guardian.
From laksa-marinated wings at an ’80s-inspired Singaporean kopitiam to sustainable fish and chips from a marine biologist, here’s where to eat in Canada’s thriving food hub
Ringed by soaring mountains, with gleaming glass skyscrapers reflected in the still waters that surround its downtown core, Vancouver is easy to love. And as the thriving urban hub of British Columbia and a proudly immigrant city, there are plenty of people around to love it. Over 40 percent of Vancouver’s residents were born outside of Canada, and the city is home to robust Chinese, Indian, and Filipino communities, to name a few.
The city’s most beloved and vital dining experiences reflect this blend. Chefs from around the world apply culinary traditions to exceptional produce from the Lower Mainland and superb seafood from the cold, clean waters around Vancouver Island, creating a unique style of West Coast cuisine. Vancouver is especially spoiled for choice when it comes to Asian dining: pan-Asian flavors pair with French techniques at Pidgin, Bread X Butter, and Patisserie Remi; Vietnamese and Cambodian culinary traditions joyfully collide at Phnom Penh; and neighboring Richmond boasts some of the very best Chinese food in the world outside of China. Meanwhile, the city’s signature plant-forward, locavore cuisine thrives at restaurants like Forage and Burdock & Co, and sustainable seafood shines at RawBar and Sashimiya. Add in mushrooming brewery and distillery scenes, globally awarded, fresh fruit-forward wines from the nearby Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys, and a creative cocktail culture that’s second to none, and you’ll see why Vancouver deserves its reputation as one of the world’s best places to eat and drink.
Updated, May 2022:
Cherry blossom and patio season fully bloom in Vancouver in May, bringing long, late sunsets and a chance to enjoy the city’s dazzling mountain and ocean views (mostly) without an umbrella. With most COVID-19 restrictions now removed, bars and restaurants across the city are busy, in-person events are back, and spirits are generally high. Look out for seasonal treats on menus, such as sweet sustainable spot prawns and the first scarlet coho salmon from Haida Gwaii.
Nikki Bayley is an award-winning freelance travel, food, and wine writer whose work has appeared in The Daily Telegraph, National Geographic Traveler, The Globe and Mail, and The Guardian.
My fantasy home won’t be complete without these Gohar World eggcessories
Would it be eggstravagant to buy a $298 item billed as an “egg chandelier,” a wrought-iron centerpiece on which one can display 11 — ideally, boiled — eggs? And what about if each of those eggs wore an “egg dress,” a scrap of scalloped lace that one is meant to wrap around said egg before tying it together with a black ribbon? (Black tie! And a comparative steal at $28 for a set of six.)
The undoubtedly *ahem* eggstra approach of these tabletop (stick with me here) eggcessories feels eggsactly the point — these decorative oddities are the creation of Gohar World, a new houseware brand whose bizarre designs will forevermore fill the straight-out-of-Beetlejuice dream house I’ve constructed in my head. Millennial minimalism is decidedly less cool than it was six years ago, and in its place has come the resurgence of maximalism and the rise of “cluttercore.” It is amid this aesthetic shift toward the zany, the colorful, and the absurd that Gohar World chaotically emerges, the brainchild of food artist Laila Gohar and her sister and fellow artist Nadia.
To be clear, I am not — and likely will not ever be — in a position in which I could buy a thing like an egg chandelier and not be wracked with guilt over my reckless spending. And yet, it will undoubtedly remain one of those things I come back to online time and time again for a quick hit of levity and self-indulgent fantasy — right alongside Fashion Brand Company’s clothing line for lizards. (I do not currently have a lizard.) While it’s jarring to accept that a $300 egg chandelier that one might use a handful of times is like, NBD to some people in our existing world, it is also nice to imagine a world in which I could buy such silly and ultimately useless things.
In my wildest, spend-without-abandon fantasies, I’d sit at my unreasonably long dining table for a dinner party with Lorde and my lizard, wearing its egg sweater, and we’d all admire the well-dressed eggs on their chandelier before us. (There would be onion rings, of course.) If you are the wealthy benefactor who can make this happen, you know where to find me. Until then, I’ll keep refreshing the page, hoping for a steep, steep discount.
From laksa-marinated wings at an ’80s-inspired Singaporean kopitiam to sustainable fish and chips from a marine biologist, here’s where to eat in Canada’s thriving food hub
Ringed by soaring mountains, with gleaming glass skyscrapers reflected in the still waters that surround its downtown core, Vancouver is easy to love, says local food writer Nikki Bayley. Over 40 percent of Vancouver's residents were born outside of Canada, and the city is home to robust Chinese, Indian, and Filipino communities, just to name a few. The thriving urban hub of British Columbia is "a proudly immigrant city," Bayley says. "The combination of chefs from around the world bringing their own culinary traditions to the exceptional produce from the Lower Mainland and superb seafood from the cold clean waters around Vancouver Island has created a delicious and new style of west coast cuisine."
The city's most beloved and vital dining experiences reflect this blend. From traditional soup dumplings to top-notch (and affordable) sushi, Vancouver is spoiled for choice when it comes to Asian dining. Locavore dining is the city's signature. "Casual and super-healthy with an eye to sustainability, the city ticks in time with the sharply defined seasons and everything from spot prawns to ramps are duly fêted," says Bayley. "Add in mushrooming brewery and distillery scenes and an intoxicating variety of wine varietals from the nearby Okanagan and you'll see why Vancouver's reputation as one of the world's best places to eat and drink is more than deserved."
Price per person
$ = Less than 20 CAD (less than 15 USD)
$$ = 20 - 49 CAD (15 - 40 USD)
$$$ = 50 - 100 CAD (40 - 75 USD)
$$$$ = More than 100 CAD (more than 75 USD)
Why a New Generation Is Obsessed With Vintage China
May 26, 2022
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On Instagram and at estate sales, people are on the hunt for elaborate dishes and elegant glassware
Lisa Dye has been accused of depleting the world’s supply of depression glass. It’s the kind of accusation that could only be made on TikTok or another social media platform, a hyperbolic declaration that reveals people will develop hard opinions about just about anything. Still, you’d think such accusations would be saved for politics, not vintage china. Dye sells vintage china and table setting pieces through her business, Highlands Cakestand Co., as well as custom-made serving tiers, which she creates by drilling through vintage pieces. “As a rule, I don’t drill antiquity — anything over 100 years old,” she says. “Honey, if it made it that long, who am I to put a hole in it?” Still, the internet will always have opinions.
There is something almost delightful about watching people get riled up over vintage china. Traditionally, the privileged few have had access to things like bone plates and fine silver — they’re expensive to begin with, they break or get sold off or thrown away because no one wants to deal with the fuss. And as most of us don’t lead lives that look like what’s depicted on TheGilded Age, with a full house staff responsible for the care and maintenance of such fine pieces, practicality has been the overwhelming trend in dining ware for the past decade or so. DTC brands like Our Place and Year & Day sell sturdy, monochrome plates and bowls, minimalist choices meant to blend seamlessly into any home. But a recent push for more maximalist styles has led to an appreciation for vintage china, one that’s spanning generations and inspiring people to bring out the stuff they have sitting in their closets.
Jennifer Aube, aka @thehappyhuntingthrifter, was not always fascinated with vintage china. She was burned out from her job as a family visitation supervisor and thought thrifting and reselling items could be a way to earn some money. “However, I had no idea at the time that this would ultimately turn into much more than a hobby,” she says. Aube now sells vintage items on eBay, and chronicles her findings on TikTok, where she has nearly 18,000 followers. Recent videos show her identifying uranium glass, showcasing Fenton and Lenox items, and walking followers through her shopping process. “If you were to ask me this before I started this, I would have assumed that the only people interested in fine china were collectors,” says Aube. However, she’s found a whole world of people who are interested in fine china, and all for different reasons. The hashtag #vintagechina on TikTok brings up videos for thrifting tips, crafts, history lessons on different items, and inspiration for table settings for different occasions.
The online enthusiasm over vintage china has also resulted in IRL gatherings. May Eason began the Facebook group Beautiful Table Settings in September 2019. She began collecting china shortly before starting the group, and wanted a place to share her tablescapes. Now, the group has over 119,000 members, and last month hosted its first “BTS Bash” in Wetumpka, Alabama. Eason says more than 500 people came from across the country, listening to speakers and watching demonstrations on things like silver cleaning and planning thrifting trips. For Eason, enthusiasm over vintage china is all about sharing beautiful things. “You’re doing this for your family and your friends, so you want to make your table presentable and pretty,” she says. “And it’s fun to play with it. I think younger people are finally realizing you can change it up.”
Cynthia (who asked to be referred to by her first name) runs the vintage china company and appraisal service The Teacup Attic. She says she’s noticed a few different groups converging, including older women who have collected china for decades, tea enthusiasts, and younger millennials who have inherited their parents’ or grandparents’ china and are developing a growing appreciation for it. “As things are cyclical, vintage is always cool and the idea of tea parties has been swept into that trend, partially influenced by shows like Downton Abbey and Bridgerton, but also influenced by the pandemic,” Cynthia says. Dye agrees, saying she’s seen increased demand for “rich details, inherited pieces, color, grandeur and, in general, the lost art of entertaining,” and that she can’t believe how many lifestyle influencers “are now embracing the ‘grandmillennial’ or ‘maximalist’ vibe.”
In October 2020, Rebecca Jennings outlined the new maximalism trend for Vox as the pendulum swinging away from the post-Recession minimalism trend, which was itself a backlash to mid-aughts, pre-Recession gaudiness. Minimalism also came with expensive status markers, and as Kyle Chayka wrote in the New Yorker, many of its designers had ideas rooted in racism, preferring the clean sophistication of Scandinavian design to the “savagery” of more colorful, cluttered aesthetics. So maximalism is back, a reaction to the mass production and industrialization that gave everyone the same tasteful midcentury-feeling West Elm couch, but with a different flavor than the early-aughts variety.
“Trends like ‘grandmillennial’ style and cottagecore prioritize handmade ornamental objects like needlepoint pillows, lace doilies, and chintz curtains that suggest some kind of personal history,” writes Jennings. And while amassing more stuff may seem like we’re veering back into gaudiness, much of this round of maximalism is about thrifting, upcycling, and making use of inherited pieces rather than buying anything new. It’s also about nostalgia — Aube says many of her followers are looking for missing pieces for collections they’ve inherited, or just things they remember from growing up that may now be lost. And instead of hoarding away the fine china, more people are willing to use it for everyday occasions.
The pandemic also aided the rise of maximalism. When you can’t leave your house, minimalist style becomes downright drab, the neutral tones and bare walls a mirror of one’s isolation and depression. Aube says she’s noticed her followers gravitating toward china with gold accents and bright colors, dishes that can be admired for more than just their practicality and are a joy to look at when you can’t go out and look at anything else. The pandemic has also seemingly inspired more people to pull out the stops when entertaining, as years of not being able to entertain has made the prospect all the more celebratory. “I really think folks are ready to entertain in style and go to the effort of making at least the occasional meal a truly special event for friends and family,” says Dye.
The sentiment behind the boom in vintage china obsession is also the ironic sentiment behind every trend — the desire to not be like everyone else. Even if some vintage china was mass-produced, much of the appeal is that your home (and then, your social media) will look different. It’s less likely your friends are going to have the same patterns you found at an estate sale, or ones you snapped up from Instagram or TikTok before anyone else, or the same glassware your grandmother picked out. Your table settings, your home, can become the ultimate statement of you, not of Great Jones and Heath ceramics. The pendulum will inevitably swing back, and maybe by that time it’ll be those brands filling the Goodwill shelves. But for now, isn’t it nice to drink from an art deco coupe glass, knowing you’re the one who saw how special it was?
Carolyn Figelis a freelance illustrator & animator living in Brooklyn, New York.
The line includes a drink koozie reading “It’s the freedom for me”
Retail giant Walmart is walking back on its new line of partyware and an ice cream flavor released to celebrate Juneteenth, the federal holiday commemorating the emancipation of enslaved Black people in Galveston, Texas, on June 19, 1865, nearly two and a half years after Abraham Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation. Known as Black Independence Day, Juneteenth has long been celebrated in African American communities, but only became a federal holiday in 2021 when President Joe Biden signed the Juneteenth National Independence Day Act.
Earlier this week, shoppers at Walmart spotted a new line of Juneteenth party supplies, including Juneteenth plates, napkins, and drink koozies that read “It’s the freedom for me.” Walmart also released a special Juneteenth ice cream, flavored with red velvet and cream cheese, and advertised with the copy, “Share and celebrate African American culture, emancipation, and enduring hope.”
Photos and video of the Walmart Juneteenth product displays were widely mocked on social media on Tuesday. Among those commenting were comedian and Daily Show correspondent Roy Wood, Jr., who tweeted, “Would you like some Juneteenth Ice cream on a Juneteenth plate as you sip your beer in a Juneteenth Koozie?”
Would you like some Juneteenth Ice cream on a Juneteenth plate as you sip your beer in a Juneteenth Koozie? pic.twitter.com/VCDpfOgYro
By Tuesday evening, Walmart issued a statement to Fox 7 Austin, writing, “Juneteenth holiday marks a celebration of freedom and independence. However, we received feedback that a few items caused concern for some of our customers and we sincerely apologize. We are reviewing our assortment and will remove items as appropriate.”
Since @Walmart is so clearly feeling moved to celebrate #Juneteenth, I guess all black employees will have the option of either a paid day off or double time that day. Right? pic.twitter.com/T8PMvuugqA
— Dr. Haddassah's black table (@DreazyBK) May 23, 2022
Among the many ironies of Walmart attempting to profit off Juneteenth is the product line’s Pan-Africanist color scheme. The Pan-African black, red, and green flag — designed by activist Marcus Garvey — was created to represent Black liberation and anti-colonialism: The red symbolizes blood shed through subjugation, the black symbolizes Black people, and the green represents the fertility of the African continent. It has become increasingly visible in recent protests against the police murder of Black civilians.
And as Cat Davis and Dorian Warren wrote in an NBC News op-ed in 2020, “Walmart cannot claim to be committed to Black lives while its policies, from inadequate health insurance to poverty wages to insufficient paid leave, have helped lay the groundwork for staggeringly disparate health and economic outcomes in the Black community.”
Walmart has a long history of labor exploitations, which include paying sub-living wages (in 2021, it raised its minimum wage to $12 per hour). In early 2020, it rolled out a restructuring program that, while touted for creating more full-time positions, was criticized for eliminating roles and simultaneously creating overwhelming workloads for remaining employees. The biggest private employer in the U.S., Walmart has thrived financially during the COVID-19 pandemic, with the New York Timesreporting, “During fiscal 2020, the company generated $559 billion in revenue, up $35 billion from the previous year. But labor activists say too little of that money has gone toward work force protections, which in turn has prolonged the pandemic.”
Under the current time-off system, hourly full-time employees “earn” paid time off (PTO) and are rewarded financially for good attendance. In January 2022, Walmart halved PTO for employees who test positive for COVID. Part-time hourly workers do not receive any paid maternity leave. According to Bloomberg, “Black and African-American recruits made up 28 percent of all new hires in the U.S. [in 2020-21], but accounted for 13 percent of promotions from hourly to management roles, according to the company’s latest diversity report.”
Walmart attempting to market and profit off of Juneteenth — a holiday that represents Black strength, but also the white failure to broadly enact emancipation at the end of the Civil War — is yet another example of bad corporate activism. It’s easy to adopt slogans and flashy colors while waiting for the dollars to roll in. Being called on your bullshit and expected to correct years of abuses against your marginalized employees? It’s the “doing the work” for me.
Where to find cheeseburger spring rolls, masala rose pasta, and luxe poutine before (or after) you fly
Canada’s busiest and largest airport is cautiously rebounding from the devastating blows of the pandemic as travelers tiptoe back into global exploration. That means more adventures, but it also means the return of long wait times at check-in, security, and gates — more and more time to build up hunger that needs to be satiated.
Thankfully, Pearson has made some strides to improve the variety and quality of pre-boarding fare. It’s offering more diverse cuisines than ever, has partnered with celebrity chefs such as Susur Lee and Lynn Crawford, and welcome a bunch of outposts from restaurants in town.
Navigating Pearson can be a bit tricky. There are two terminals: Terminal 1 and 3 (since 2007, there has been no terminal 2). Terminal 1 has three different security areas for flights within Canada, flights to the United States, and international destinations; you can’t cross between these areas. In Terminal 3, flights within Canada and international destinations are in the same area, but flights to the United States are in a separate section; you can’t cross between the U.S. and Canada/international areas.
Still, it’s worth any hassle to seek out a decent meal before your flight.
YYZ’s Seven Standouts
The Dirty Bird Chicken & Waffles Express: Not all travelers want to pregame a flight (or interminable wait for takeoff) with fried chicken and waffles, but the fiercely delicious Dirty Bird isn’t some generic spot. If you somehow missed visiting its flagship spot in Kensington Market, do yourself a favor and try the gluten-free and halal-friendly OEB (dark meat, crispy and fluffy waffle, buttered maple, and dirty sauce). Or if you prefer something less messy, you can’t go wrong with a handheld like the OG with thigh meat, pickles, and dirty aioli. (Terminal 1 after security, Canadian area, Gate D20)
Boccone Trattoria by Massimo Capra: Opened by local celebrity chef Massimo Capra (Food Network Canada) with his hallmark bushy mustache, this family-friendly trattoria features a generous menu of Italian breakfasts with signature scaccia (Sicilian folded pizza), antipasti and shareables, salads, pastas, pizzas, paninis, and hearty mains like pan-seared pickerel and roasted porchetta. The partitioned seating helps make the place feel more like a legit restaurant than an airport eatery. (Terminal 1 after security, Canadian area, Gate D41)
HMSHost
The Hearth by Lynn Crawford
The Hearth by Lynn Crawford: Helmed by celeb chef Lynn Crawford (Top Chef Canada, Iron Chef America), the restaurant is centered around a large hearth, where staff makes signature flatbreads with toppings like mushroom and leek with Parmesan bechamel. Many menu options are Canadian comfort classics, including Montreal-style poutine, Fogo Island fish and chips, and old-school spaghetti and meatballs. (Terminal 1 after security, American area, Gate F60)
Caplansky’s Deli: If you don’t want to be tempted by overpriced snacks while in the air, look to Zane Caplanksy to stuff you to the gills with his self-described “Jewish soul food.” Options include the leaning tower of Caplansky (high-rise challah French toast), brisket sandwiches, knish pockets, and matzo ball soup. (Terminal 3 after security, Canadian/international area, Gate B39)
Lee Kitchen by Susur Lee: If you prefer shared snacks to a full-on meal, consider celebrity chef Susur Lee’s (Top Chef, Iron Chef America) airport offshoot. Modeled with the same Asian fusion/French-inflected philosophy as the original Lee Restaurant on King West, Lee Kitchen is a streamlined spot for some of chef’s most popular hits (like the cheeseburger spring rolls), strip steak with teriyaki sauce, and all-day dim sum. (Terminal 1 after security, international area, Gate E73/F73)
Vinifera: The primary draw here is the nearly 100 wines and 20 craft beers on offer, which are complemented with a mishmash of mains and handhelds that include flatbreads, sandwiches, pizza, pasta, and quesadillas. Flavor combinations in dishes like the masala rose pasta are engaging enough to keep your palate piqued, though the simpler lemon rosemary chicken panini is a solid choice too. (Terminal 3 after security, Canadian/international area, Gate C32)
Bolding denotes the better eating options beyond the above highlights.
Terminal 1
Before security
Booster Juice: Canadian juice and smoothie chain (primarily found in malls) that offers meals in liquid format. (Level 2 parking and Link Train)
Starbucks: Multinational corporation offering overpriced coffee and fancy espresso-based drinks that are even more pricey. (Level 1 arrivals and Level 3 check in)
Subway: The one with the funky synthetic yeast smell. This is another American mega-chain that offers “healthy” (not really) foot-long subs for any mealtime. (Level 2 mezzanine)
Tim Hortons: Cheap Canadian doughnut chain (bought out by an American multinational) that offers doughnuts, sandwiches, basic coffee, and sugary espresso-based drinks. (Level 1 arrivals)
After security (flights within Canada)
A&W: Middle-of-the-road burger chain distinguished by its root beer pairing. (Gate D37)
Bar 120: Cuisine transformed: Pared back molecular gastronomy by chef John Placko, with less gimmick and more practicality (think dome-smoked chicken wings). (Gate D20)
Bento Sushi: Generic mall sushi, but at the airport. (Gate D22)
Boccone Trattoria by Massimo Capra: Local celebrity chef’s rustic Italian fare, including breakfast, pasta, pizzas, antipasti, and bar snacks. (Gate D41)
Camden Food Company: An airport chain that attempts organic, fair-trade, and local fare — that all tastes subpar, especially for the price and portion sizes. (Gate D31)
Farmer’s Market: (Un)surprisingly, there are no farmers to be found here. Instead, you’ll find packaged wraps, salad, snacks, and the usual suspects of grab-and-go fare. It’s minimally a step up from what’s sold on the plane. (Gate D4)
Mill Street Brewery Pub: This pub offshoot at Pearson delivers the convivial vibes found in Mill Street’s Distillery District location, thanks to locally brewed suds on tap along with a combination of typical and atypical pub fare that keeps the taste buds interested. (Gate D20)
Starbucks: Exceptionally long lines for expensive coffee and insulin-spiking pastries. (Gates D42, D20)
Thai Express: Quick service eatery that allegedly offers Thai creations where the pad thai is gloopy and greasy. (Gate D45)
The Dirty Bird Chicken & Waffles Express: Homegrown Toronto joint with a condensed menu at this Pearson offshoot. (Gate D20)
Tim Hortons: Sludgy coffee paired with flash-frozen and reheated doughnuts. (Gate D42)
Twist by Roger Mooking: Toronto chef Roger Mooking offers a disjointed menu of international dishes, but there are bold flavors and ingredient combinations here, especially for otherwise dull staple airport items (burgers, wraps, salads). (Gate D36)
Booster Juice: Highly caloric smoothies, shakes, and food in bowls; there are also unmemorable wraps and paninis on offer. (Gate F57)
Apropos: Standard airport bar with cocktails and small bites. (Gate F62/F65)
Cibo Express Gourmet Market: Not to be confused with Via Cibo and Cibo Wine Bar (two other restaurant chains in the city), this airport-specific entity stockpiles sandwiches, drinks, and plenty of other non-edible goods fit for travel. (Gate F61)
Starbucks: If you’ve downloaded their app and have star rewards, now is a good time to use them to redeem for free food/drinks. (Gate F60)
The Burger Federation: Eatery for those who eat burgers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (with major Donald Gorske vibes). (Gate F87)
The Hearth by Lynn Crawford: One of celebrity chef Lynn Crawford’s last freestanding restaurants (her popular restaurant, Ruby Watchco, was shuttered in 2020). (Gate F60)
Tim Hortons: Doughnuts, with or without the blessing of Justin Bieber. (Gate F66)
Upper Crust: Pizzas, baguettes, sandwiches, and pastries on offer here. (Gate F57)
Wahlburgers: Burgers slightly a cut above their fast-food counterparts, backed by movie star Marky Mark Wahlberg and his brothers. While meat between buns comprises about 90 percent of the menu, they do also offer non-burger-ish fare that include salads and breakfast scrambles. (Gate F67)
After security (international flights)
Built Custom Burgers: Burgers, burgers, and more burgers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. You may question your life choices afterwards. (Gate E74)
Banh Shop: As the name implies, banh mi sandwiches are their primary focus, but they also offer Saigon street food such as spring rolls, soups, and noodles. (Gate E74)
Heirloom Bakery Cafe: Food Network Canada personality and This Is Crumb blogger Devin Connell has her name and brand tied to this space, but aside from that, it’s another basic sandwich and snack spot. (Gate E75)
Lee Kitchen by Susur Lee: You won’t find Susur Lee’s 20-plus-ingredient, fancy schmancy salad here, but rather more mainstream options with a few Asian fusion dishes (hoisin chicken, jerk barbecue ribs). (Gate E73/F73)
Marathi: One of the few airport spots that can actually tickle your taste buds. A pretty robust display of Indian street food is on offer here with dishes that are acutely accentuated with heady spices: mains like coconut prawn curry, jackfruit and chicken, khurma, and masala scrambled eggs for early risers. (Gate E78)
Rock Squeeze: Top-shelf whiskies (over 20) are available here, along with a few snacks to accompany them. (Gate E74)
Starbucks: Where drinks can easily cost more than the food. And where the food (sandwiches, wraps, bakery goods) is nuked in a microwave. (Gate E75)
Tim Hortons: The cheapest place to eat at the airport; it’s actually possible for two people to “dine” (two sandwiches, two drinks) for $10 CAD and under. (Gates E81 and E66)
Wahlburgers: The only eatery where you can order an out-of-season cranberry-turkey Thanksgiving burger in the middle of summer. (Gate E67)
eskystudio/Shutterstock
Terminal 3
Before security
Freshii: Health-conscious meals sold in the form of burritos, tacos, bowls, super smoothies, salads, snacks, and frozen yogurt. (Departures level)
Starbucks: The only place left in Toronto where the coffee shops outnumber the weed shops in the city. (Departures level)
Subway: Canadian professional snowboarder Mark Lee McMorris is currently the Great North’s spokesperson for Subway, but the subs still taste the same as when Jared Fogel was touting his weight-loss journey with the company. (Domestic arrivals)
Tim Hortons: Stereotyped as “Canadian as maple syrup” food icon where you order a “double double” (double cream and double sugar in a coffee) and servers know (for better or worse) exactly what you’re asking for. (Arrivals level)
Wendy’s: Square patties, chili, and Frosties are the primary distinguishing features to an otherwise standard fast-food burger chain. (Arrivals level)
After security (USA flights)
Acer: Not to be confused with the Taiwainese electronics brand of the same name, this Acer is named after the country’s famous Japanese maple trees. The eatery serves rice bowls, rolls, curry rice, and ramen. Also American/Continental (not Japanese) breakfast is offered here. (Gate C36)
Archeo Pizzeria: Another sibling spot modeled after a restaurant, this time Archeo, which offers trattoria fare in the Distillery District. The airport eatery is focused on just its focaccia-style pizzas. (Gate A10)
Cluny Grille: Top-tier dogs and decadent poutine. (Gate A10)
Distillery Bar: An attempt at recreating the sociable vibes of Toronto’s historic Distillery District with a menu of beers, both draft and bottled available, as well a few wines. A limited number of snack options are here too. (Gate A10)
Nobel Burger: Celebrity chef Mark McEwan (Iron Chef America, Top Chef Canada) signed off on this upscale/gourmet burger bar whose options (patty slapped with Brie, truffle oil, and oyster mushrooms) are more interesting than your average humdrum toppings. (Gate A13)
Starbucks: Once a quaint Seattle-based coffee shop, it is now found in all corners of the world, including this Toronto airport. (Gate A14)
Urban Crave: Described as “global street food,” the menu actually reads more like a Denny’s, with items like an egg breakfast bucket and the chicken chop chop bowl. (Gate A12)
Urban Market: 7-Eleven meets Panera Bread with a lot of pre-packaged food. (Gate A9)
After security (flights within Canada or international)
Beerhive: A hub for local and international craft beer, paired with pub grub (burgers, wraps, pizza). (Gate B41)
Booster juice: Pricey health food chain but ideal for those who prefer to drink their diet than waste their precious time chewing. (Gate B41)
Caplanksy’s Deli: Chef Zane Caplanky’s beloved College Street restaurant was shuttered due to landlord issues, but his Jewish deli spirit perseveres inside this airport location. (Gate B39)
Corso Pizza and Pasta: Neapolitan style pizza that’s actually cooked in a wood-fired oven. (Gate B29)
Fionn MacCool’s: One of the few eateries inside Pearson that actually feels like you’re stepping into a restaurant (it’s walled off and not open-concept). Aside from that, it offers your typical Irish pub grub (pot pie, fish and chips, burgers, shepherd’s pie). (Gate B24)
Heirloom Bakery Cafe: The “heirloom” aspect of the name implies that food personality Devin Connell’s recipes have been in the family for generations (and used for dishes here). Ultimately, it’s just another airport eatery with plenty of between-the-buns items, along with packaged sweets and snacks. (Gate E75)
Paramount Fine Foods: Lebanese-Canadian Mohamad Fakih’s restaurant chain offers Middle Eastern (such as shish tawouk platters) and Lebanese dishes (fried kibbeh and kafta kebabs). Meals are reasonably priced with generous portion sizes. (Gate C36)
Smashburger: Yet another burger chain at the airport. This time, it’s a Denver based-brand whose only Toronto location is at Pearson. This one focuses on smash-griddled burgers. (Gate B26)
Starbucks: Although 33 locations swiftly closed in Toronto this year (due to the company’s self-described desire for “business transformation” and internal “restructuring”), none of the locations at the airport were affected (all nine locations remain intact). (Gate B39)
Subway: The brand claims to offer over 2 million iterations of their sandwiches but the common denominator is that they all taste like sadness (and sometimes, mystery meat). (Gate B22)
Tap & Pour: A pub that also offers local Mill Street brews; the food is exactly what you’d expect from a pub (fish and chips, burgers, wraps). (Gate B3)
Tim Hortons: Canadians have a love/hate relationship with Timmies; we’ll shame it, but God help any non-Canadian who bad mouths it. (Gates B22, B3, and B26)
Vinifera: Vinifera is open when you need a bar at 4 a.m. because your body is in another time zone where it’s happy hour. (Gate C32)
Vino Volo Wine Bar: There are over 30 wine varieties to choose from here, along with snacky options (marcona almonds, charcuterie boards) for those in between meals or stuck on a layover. (Gate B22)
From spicy chicken wings to salty pretzels, here’s how to fill up pre-flight
Whether you’re waiting to take off or lingering for a layover, Cleveland Hopkins International Airport (CLE) has several solid options for dining within the airport. There’s a restaurant from Food Network stalwart Michael Symon, as well as a brewpub from the city’s most famous brewery, Great Lakes Brewing Company.
Updated, May 2022: It’s worth noting that the airport has lost several options over the past few months, including Shake Shack, Wow Bao, and Cantina Taqueria.
Here’s a comprehensive guide to the options available for dining, drinking, and relaxing while at CLE. Find an updated list of offerings on the airport’s website as well.
Main Terminal
Best for a sit-down meal or drink: The Pub
A typical airport bar that gets the job done, the Pub has a mix of British dishes, like fish and chips, and more generic bar food, like burgers and Reubens.
Best quick bite: Currito
Since CLE’s Shake Shack location closed its doors, Currito has become the go-to for a quick bite. The eatery offers a fresh option for burrito bowls with a global bent, as well as smoothies. There are plenty of ways for folks with dietary restrictions to adapt the menu to their needs.
The rest:
Auntie Anne’s: The hot pretzel beloved by teens in shopping malls everywhere.
Bruegger’s Bagels: Serviceable bagel sandwiches.
Chick-fil-A: Chicken nuggets and sandwiches with a side of controversy.
Dunkin’ Donuts: Love-it-or-hate-it chain coffee, doughnuts, and mediocre breakfast sandwiches.
Embers (across from central checkpoint): Newish sit-down option with an eclectic menu.
Currito [official photo]
A bowl from Curritos in the Cleveland airport
Ticketing
Best to look elsewhere for food, but if necessary you’ll find:
Subway: Sad chain deli sandwiches, though an option for calorie-counters.
Euro Cafe: Basic to-go options like breakfast sandwiches.
Concourse A
This is the weakest of the three gated areas; here, options include:
Sammy’s Beach Bar & Grill: Islandy food and drink that’s skippable unless a mai tai craving hits. (Gate A1)
Starbucks: Ubiquitous for coffee and pastries. (Gate A1)
Panini’s: Overstuffed sandwiches. (Gate A6)
Concourse B
Best sit-down meal: Quaker Steak & Lube
This Pennsylvania chain also has outposts around Ohio, including this airport location. The casual restaurant with a gas-station theme is best known for its chicken wings and more than 20 available sauces, such as ghost pepper and Asian lemongrass. Note: Since Quaker is closed at the moment, those with some time to sit down should head to another concourse. (Gate B5)
Best for drinks: Vino Volo
Find cured meats, cheeses, and other snacks at this airport chain, as well as wine flights and pairings, all adding up to a reasonably civilized pre-flight destination. (Gate B2)
Official
Wings from Quaker Steak
The rest:
Menchie’s Frozen Yogurt: Frozen yogurt with various toppings. (across from Gate B6)
Another Subway (across from Gate B6)
Another Auntie Anne’s (Gate B6)
Another Inca Tea: Coffee and tea, but fewer food options than the location in Concourse C (see below).
Concourse C
Best sit-down meal: Bar Symon
This casual restaurant from chef Michael Symon (Lola, B Spot) — who rose to national prominence after his turns on The Chew and various Food Network shows — offers drinks and bar food, with Symon’s own Cleveland-centric spin. The restaurant makes a better-than-expected bloody mary and some excellent dry-rub wings. Find burgers, pulled pork sandwiches, and pierogies, too. (Between Gates C4-C6)
Best for drinks: Great Lakes Brewing Company
Cleveland’s most famous brewery now has an offshoot of its iconic brewpub at the airport. Expect the beers that have made the company beloved, from the Eliot Ness Amber Lager to the Burning River Pale Ale, plus a limited offering of Eastern European-influenced bar food items (pretzel-crusted chicken, a sausage sampler, bratwurst, pierogi, and more). (Gate C14)
The rest:
Potbelly: Sandwich chain, where the Italian’s a good bet. (Gate C28)
Inca Tea Cafe: Coffee, tea, etc. (across from C28)
Another Starbucks (Gate C22)
Bar Symon [official photo]
Pulled pork sandwich from Bar Symon
Where to find cheeseburger spring rolls, masala rose pasta, and luxe poutine before (or after) you fly
Canada’s busiest and largest airport is cautiously rebounding from the devastating blows of the pandemic as travelers tiptoe back into global exploration. That means more adventures, but it also means the return of long wait times at check-in, security, and gates — more and more time to build up hunger that needs to be satiated.
Thankfully, Pearson has made some strides to improve the variety and quality of pre-boarding fare. It’s offering more diverse cuisines than ever, has partnered with celebrity chefs such as Susur Lee and Lynn Crawford, and welcome a bunch of outposts from restaurants in town.
Navigating Pearson can be a bit tricky. There are two terminals: Terminal 1 and 3 (since 2007, there has been no terminal 2). Terminal 1 has three different security areas for flights within Canada, flights to the United States, and international destinations; you can’t cross between these areas. In Terminal 3, flights within Canada and international destinations are in the same area, but flights to the United States are in a separate section; you can’t cross between the U.S. and Canada/international areas.
Still, it’s worth any hassle to seek out a decent meal before your flight.
YYZ’s Seven Standouts
The Dirty Bird Chicken & Waffles Express: Not all travelers want to pregame a flight (or interminable wait for takeoff) with fried chicken and waffles, but the fiercely delicious Dirty Bird isn’t some generic spot. If you somehow missed visiting its flagship spot in Kensington Market, do yourself a favor and try the gluten-free and halal-friendly OEB (dark meat, crispy and fluffy waffle, buttered maple, and dirty sauce). Or if you prefer something less messy, you can’t go wrong with a handheld like the OG with thigh meat, pickles, and dirty aioli. (Terminal 1 after security, Canadian area, Gate D20)
Boccone Trattoria by Massimo Capra: Opened by local celebrity chef Massimo Capra (Food Network Canada) with his hallmark bushy mustache, this family-friendly trattoria features a generous menu of Italian breakfasts with signature scaccia (Sicilian folded pizza), antipasti and shareables, salads, pastas, pizzas, paninis, and hearty mains like pan-seared pickerel and roasted porchetta. The partitioned seating helps make the place feel more like a legit restaurant than an airport eatery. (Terminal 1 after security, Canadian area, Gate D41)
HMSHost
The Hearth by Lynn Crawford
The Hearth by Lynn Crawford: Helmed by celeb chef Lynn Crawford (Top Chef Canada, Iron Chef America), the restaurant is centered around a large hearth, where staff makes signature flatbreads with toppings like mushroom and leek with Parmesan bechamel. Many menu options are Canadian comfort classics, including Montreal-style poutine, Fogo Island fish and chips, and old-school spaghetti and meatballs. (Terminal 1 after security, American area, Gate F60)
Caplansky’s Deli: If you don’t want to be tempted by overpriced snacks while in the air, look to Zane Caplanksy to stuff you to the gills with his self-described “Jewish soul food.” Options include the leaning tower of Caplansky (high-rise challah French toast), brisket sandwiches, knish pockets, and matzo ball soup. (Terminal 3 after security, Canadian/international area, Gate B39)
Lee Kitchen by Susur Lee: If you prefer shared snacks to a full-on meal, consider celebrity chef Susur Lee’s (Top Chef, Iron Chef America) airport offshoot. Modeled with the same Asian fusion/French-inflected philosophy as the original Lee Restaurant on King West, Lee Kitchen is a streamlined spot for some of chef’s most popular hits (like the cheeseburger spring rolls), strip steak with teriyaki sauce, and all-day dim sum. (Terminal 1 after security, international area, Gate E73/F73)
Vinifera: The primary draw here is the nearly 100 wines and 20 craft beers on offer, which are complemented with a mishmash of mains and handhelds that include flatbreads, sandwiches, pizza, pasta, and quesadillas. Flavor combinations in dishes like the masala rose pasta are engaging enough to keep your palate piqued, though the simpler lemon rosemary chicken panini is a solid choice too. (Terminal 3 after security, Canadian/international area, Gate C32)
Bolding denotes the better eating options beyond the above highlights.
Terminal 1
Before security
Booster Juice: Canadian juice and smoothie chain (primarily found in malls) that offers meals in liquid format. (Level 2 parking and Link Train)
Starbucks: Multinational corporation offering overpriced coffee and fancy espresso-based drinks that are even more pricey. (Level 1 arrivals and Level 3 check in)
Subway: The one with the funky synthetic yeast smell. This is another American mega-chain that offers “healthy” (not really) foot-long subs for any mealtime. (Level 2 mezzanine)
Tim Hortons: Cheap Canadian doughnut chain (bought out by an American multinational) that offers doughnuts, sandwiches, basic coffee, and sugary espresso-based drinks. (Level 1 arrivals)
After security (flights within Canada)
A&W: Middle-of-the-road burger chain distinguished by its root beer pairing. (Gate D37)
Bar 120: Cuisine transformed: Pared back molecular gastronomy by chef John Placko, with less gimmick and more practicality (think dome-smoked chicken wings). (Gate D20)
Bento Sushi: Generic mall sushi, but at the airport. (Gate D22)
Boccone Trattoria by Massimo Capra: Local celebrity chef’s rustic Italian fare, including breakfast, pasta, pizzas, antipasti, and bar snacks. (Gate D41)
Camden Food Company: An airport chain that attempts organic, fair-trade, and local fare — that all tastes subpar, especially for the price and portion sizes. (Gate D31)
Farmer’s Market: (Un)surprisingly, there are no farmers to be found here. Instead, you’ll find packaged wraps, salad, snacks, and the usual suspects of grab-and-go fare. It’s minimally a step up from what’s sold on the plane. (Gate D4)
Mill Street Brewery Pub: This pub offshoot at Pearson delivers the convivial vibes found in Mill Street’s Distillery District location, thanks to locally brewed suds on tap along with a combination of typical and atypical pub fare that keeps the taste buds interested. (Gate D20)
Starbucks: Exceptionally long lines for expensive coffee and insulin-spiking pastries. (Gates D42, D20)
Thai Express: Quick service eatery that allegedly offers Thai creations where the pad thai is gloopy and greasy. (Gate D45)
The Dirty Bird Chicken & Waffles Express: Homegrown Toronto joint with a condensed menu at this Pearson offshoot. (Gate D20)
Tim Hortons: Sludgy coffee paired with flash-frozen and reheated doughnuts. (Gate D42)
Twist by Roger Mooking: Toronto chef Roger Mooking offers a disjointed menu of international dishes, but there are bold flavors and ingredient combinations here, especially for otherwise dull staple airport items (burgers, wraps, salads). (Gate D36)
Booster Juice: Highly caloric smoothies, shakes, and food in bowls; there are also unmemorable wraps and paninis on offer. (Gate F57)
Apropos: Standard airport bar with cocktails and small bites. (Gate F62/F65)
Cibo Express Gourmet Market: Not to be confused with Via Cibo and Cibo Wine Bar (two other restaurant chains in the city), this airport-specific entity stockpiles sandwiches, drinks, and plenty of other non-edible goods fit for travel. (Gate F61)
Starbucks: If you’ve downloaded their app and have star rewards, now is a good time to use them to redeem for free food/drinks. (Gate F60)
The Burger Federation: Eatery for those who eat burgers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (with major Donald Gorske vibes). (Gate F87)
The Hearth by Lynn Crawford: One of celebrity chef Lynn Crawford’s last freestanding restaurants (her popular restaurant, Ruby Watchco, was shuttered in 2020). (Gate F60)
Tim Hortons: Doughnuts, with or without the blessing of Justin Bieber. (Gate F66)
Upper Crust: Pizzas, baguettes, sandwiches, and pastries on offer here. (Gate F57)
Wahlburgers: Burgers slightly a cut above their fast-food counterparts, backed by movie star Marky Mark Wahlberg and his brothers. While meat between buns comprises about 90 percent of the menu, they do also offer non-burger-ish fare that include salads and breakfast scrambles. (Gate F67)
After security (international flights)
Built Custom Burgers: Burgers, burgers, and more burgers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. You may question your life choices afterwards. (Gate E74)
Banh Shop: As the name implies, banh mi sandwiches are their primary focus, but they also offer Saigon street food such as spring rolls, soups, and noodles. (Gate E74)
Heirloom Bakery Cafe: Food Network Canada personality and This Is Crumb blogger Devin Connell has her name and brand tied to this space, but aside from that, it’s another basic sandwich and snack spot. (Gate E75)
Lee Kitchen by Susur Lee: You won’t find Susur Lee’s 20-plus-ingredient, fancy schmancy salad here, but rather more mainstream options with a few Asian fusion dishes (hoisin chicken, jerk barbecue ribs). (Gate E73/F73)
Marathi: One of the few airport spots that can actually tickle your taste buds. A pretty robust display of Indian street food is on offer here with dishes that are acutely accentuated with heady spices: mains like coconut prawn curry, jackfruit and chicken, khurma, and masala scrambled eggs for early risers. (Gate E78)
Rock Squeeze: Top-shelf whiskies (over 20) are available here, along with a few snacks to accompany them. (Gate E74)
Starbucks: Where drinks can easily cost more than the food. And where the food (sandwiches, wraps, bakery goods) is nuked in a microwave. (Gate E75)
Tim Hortons: The cheapest place to eat at the airport; it’s actually possible for two people to “dine” (two sandwiches, two drinks) for $10 CAD and under. (Gates E81 and E66)
Wahlburgers: The only eatery where you can order an out-of-season cranberry-turkey Thanksgiving burger in the middle of summer. (Gate E67)
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Terminal 3
Before security
Freshii: Health-conscious meals sold in the form of burritos, tacos, bowls, super smoothies, salads, snacks, and frozen yogurt. (Departures level)
Starbucks: The only place left in Toronto where the coffee shops outnumber the weed shops in the city. (Departures level)
Subway: Canadian professional snowboarder Mark Lee McMorris is currently the Great North’s spokesperson for Subway, but the subs still taste the same as when Jared Fogel was touting his weight-loss journey with the company. (Domestic arrivals)
Tim Hortons: Stereotyped as “Canadian as maple syrup” food icon where you order a “double double” (double cream and double sugar in a coffee) and servers know (for better or worse) exactly what you’re asking for. (Arrivals level)
Wendy’s: Square patties, chili, and Frosties are the primary distinguishing features to an otherwise standard fast-food burger chain. (Arrivals level)
After security (USA flights)
Acer: Not to be confused with the Taiwainese electronics brand of the same name, this Acer is named after the country’s famous Japanese maple trees. The eatery serves rice bowls, rolls, curry rice, and ramen. Also American/Continental (not Japanese) breakfast is offered here. (Gate C36)
Archeo Pizzeria: Another sibling spot modeled after a restaurant, this time Archeo, which offers trattoria fare in the Distillery District. The airport eatery is focused on just its focaccia-style pizzas. (Gate A10)
Cluny Grille: Top-tier dogs and decadent poutine. (Gate A10)
Distillery Bar: An attempt at recreating the sociable vibes of Toronto’s historic Distillery District with a menu of beers, both draft and bottled available, as well a few wines. A limited number of snack options are here too. (Gate A10)
Nobel Burger: Celebrity chef Mark McEwan (Iron Chef America, Top Chef Canada) signed off on this upscale/gourmet burger bar whose options (patty slapped with Brie, truffle oil, and oyster mushrooms) are more interesting than your average humdrum toppings. (Gate A13)
Starbucks: Once a quaint Seattle-based coffee shop, it is now found in all corners of the world, including this Toronto airport. (Gate A14)
Urban Crave: Described as “global street food,” the menu actually reads more like a Denny’s, with items like an egg breakfast bucket and the chicken chop chop bowl. (Gate A12)
Urban Market: 7-Eleven meets Panera Bread with a lot of pre-packaged food. (Gate A9)
After security (flights within Canada or international)
Beerhive: A hub for local and international craft beer, paired with pub grub (burgers, wraps, pizza). (Gate B41)
Booster juice: Pricey health food chain but ideal for those who prefer to drink their diet than waste their precious time chewing. (Gate B41)
Caplanksy’s Deli: Chef Zane Caplanky’s beloved College Street restaurant was shuttered due to landlord issues, but his Jewish deli spirit perseveres inside this airport location. (Gate B39)
Corso Pizza and Pasta: Neapolitan style pizza that’s actually cooked in a wood-fired oven. (Gate B29)
Fionn MacCool’s: One of the few eateries inside Pearson that actually feels like you’re stepping into a restaurant (it’s walled off and not open-concept). Aside from that, it offers your typical Irish pub grub (pot pie, fish and chips, burgers, shepherd’s pie). (Gate B24)
Heirloom Bakery Cafe: The “heirloom” aspect of the name implies that food personality Devin Connell’s recipes have been in the family for generations (and used for dishes here). Ultimately, it’s just another airport eatery with plenty of between-the-buns items, along with packaged sweets and snacks. (Gate E75)
Paramount Fine Foods: Lebanese-Canadian Mohamad Fakih’s restaurant chain offers Middle Eastern (such as shish tawouk platters) and Lebanese dishes (fried kibbeh and kafta kebabs). Meals are reasonably priced with generous portion sizes. (Gate C36)
Smashburger: Yet another burger chain at the airport. This time, it’s a Denver based-brand whose only Toronto location is at Pearson. This one focuses on smash-griddled burgers. (Gate B26)
Starbucks: Although 33 locations swiftly closed in Toronto this year (due to the company’s self-described desire for “business transformation” and internal “restructuring”), none of the locations at the airport were affected (all nine locations remain intact). (Gate B39)
Subway: The brand claims to offer over 2 million iterations of their sandwiches but the common denominator is that they all taste like sadness (and sometimes, mystery meat). (Gate B22)
Tap & Pour: A pub that also offers local Mill Street brews; the food is exactly what you’d expect from a pub (fish and chips, burgers, wraps). (Gate B3)
Tim Hortons: Canadians have a love/hate relationship with Timmies; we’ll shame it, but God help any non-Canadian who bad mouths it. (Gates B22, B3, and B26)
Vinifera: Vinifera is open when you need a bar at 4 a.m. because your body is in another time zone where it’s happy hour. (Gate C32)
Vino Volo Wine Bar: There are over 30 wine varieties to choose from here, along with snacky options (marcona almonds, charcuterie boards) for those in between meals or stuck on a layover. (Gate B22)
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Bar Symon [official photo]
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